Haridwar and Rishikesh

We befriended an Indian woman on the sleeper train who helped us get a tutut at the 'local' rate... i.e. 100% reduction to Rishikesh, so we ended up paying about 400Rs, around 3.50 Pounds for an hour drive. It was a pretty big blue tutut, and every so often the driver would stop to pick up others and drop them off again, making himself a bit of extra business along the way. About half way to go the driver stopped and picked up two white girls whose bus had broken down. He returned to our tutut with them with a big grin on his face looking incredibly proud of himself himself since he had found us some friends who, being white, we should obviously know. They were from Belgium, tall tanned and blonde... unfortunately they were sat opposite three scruffy unwashed, sweaty English girls! ... but even so, it kind of felt more homely to be in a tutut with fellow westerners for the rest of the journey instead of 50 Indians crammed into our tutut.

We got out of the tutut at Rishikesh with no plans, no map and no idea what we could do or where to go, so headed straight for a cafe for a drink, breakfast and to make a plan. ... after we had eaten and drank no plan was made. So we decided to go on with no plan. We walked down the hill and crossed a large and narrow foot bridge, which should be renamed 'everything-but-foot-bridge' ... because feet on the bridge were a minority! ... being less than a meter wide we were forced to shuffle down the bridge with our backs to the side as motorcycles, scooters, rickshaws, bikes, and cows sped past us.... bar a few who had braved the walk the only other people on the foot bridge were disabled beggars who often had missing limbs... It has to come in to question whether they had a full set of limbs before setting foot onto this bridge! ...

As I am sure you know , for Hindu's cows are sacred, even on the bridge cows knew their power, and simply stood there whilst everyone else had a 5inch gap either side in which to navigate around or return from where they came as they watched, grinning and chewing their cud. After what felt like a scene from Indiana Jones we managed to get to the other side, and found that we had entered the kingdom of cows, they were everywhere, .. when they talk about the population of the place, they must mean cows, they were just casually strolling around, coming out of houses, shops restaurants, temples. Although the place was relatively scarce, there were temples among the cobbled streets, and food places and street sellers. I will upload the photos as soon as I get back as words really can't describe the beauty of the place. It was like a small community within a jungle.

We walked through the town and up through winding lanes hoping to find a secluded place to sit. Along the way we befriended a small black cow, called George, and I think he was quite happy to see Georgia cracking out some bubble chocolate and caramel bar for him, which he seemed to like. We made sure that no other cows were around first of course, since that could have turned into a very dangerous situation!

we then came across the shabby entrance and another steep path to a temple, so we entered, with the man at the door blesing us with orange marks on our foreheads. So, sweating profusely, we headed upto the temple. Then at the temple we headed up the hundreds of steps that wrapped around this incredibly tall temple. At times I got hit by a touch of vertigo, and a feeling of dread when I saw huge cracks in the stairs, but it was worth it when you saw the view from the top. Just an immense jungle land with the Ganga flowing through, a bright blue sky and huge hilltops. Unfortunately for Georgia and Flo, the experience was dampened slightly by the creepy man at the temple following them and giving them sweets and kissing them, but hey, this is India, and the saying goes 'I am sure he meant it in a nice way'.

We headed down from the temple and, after spray a can full of repellent on us (bug repellent mind you, they haven't invented one for man repellent yet!).. we headed off the beaten path into the 'jungle' (I say jungle, I mean what a jungle looks like for those who have never been to the jungle and although we could see no people, we could occasionally hear a passing car, but for us it meant adventure), we ended up hiking up these mini waterfalls, flo leading the pack and beating away large spider webs with a water bottle until we came to a small landing on the right hand side where we decided to sit for a while. Within 20 minutes we were all asleep,... in the most uncomfortable positions known to man, I shall upload a photo of Flo here when I can as I have never seen such an awkward position for sleeping!...and to top things off occasionally in her sleep she would throw out and arm and hit me with it as it to get rid of a bug! .. these two girls, Flo and Georgia, have an incredible knack for going to sleep nearly instantly wherever they are, in whatever position! ... Georgia sat in an area where an ants colony must surely be, but no worries, because she just fell asleep, no matter if there are 50,000 ants building a fortress nearby!  ... I, on the other hand, sat rather uncomfortably reading a book in a dozed state, therefore going through about a page every 20 minutes! ..

After a couple of hours, we decided that to make sure we didn't fall asleep and stay there all night we should set off back. So we walked back down the waterfall. At the end of this stream were two Indian men bathing, and they must have just seen three western girls emerge from the bush, dressed like they are from a city,  stretch out their arms and say 'aft'noon' as if it were the most normal thing in the world! ... I think they found it quite humorous,

It was getting late so we strolled back along the paths, only stopping briefly so Georgia could sit with a cow and talk to it for a photo. Apparently the previous photos were not good enough as she wasn't actually talking to it and so it was fake. So, in the middle of the path, she sat down with a ginger cow and started talking to it, asking about its day, telling it about our day, e.t.c e.t.c... Unfortunately the cows conversational skills weren't that great, but you could see in his eyes the enthusiasm, (Photo of this strange encounter to come)... meanwhile Flo the whole time was aptly pointing out how weird this was, and how you can't just sit down with a cow while people wandered passed staring at you. I also have a photo of Flo by the way, with a cow, yet it is more 'awkward' than, 'casual conversation' .

Before we left Rishikesh, surprisingly in one piece having crossed the bridge for the second time, we ate at a restaurant with an incredible view of Rishikesh and the temple and the Ganga as the sun set, and I have a few photos of this moment with us three looking tired and sweaty. part of me thinks that I took this moment for granted, and that it will be a long journey if I am to see this view again,  but I think that a lot about my memories from India, and truth be told I don't want to leave, ever.

We caught  tut tut back to Haridwar in the dark, ..and surprisingly only with one other family. We were early for our midnight train back so we wandered around Haridwar for a while, looking at the shops, buying a memory card that said 4gb, yet in hindsight after 200 photos and a video is now 'out of memory'... We found a cafe that was just about to close and sat down for a few drinks and some toast. In a tired state we were becoming slightly delirious and giggly, so I am sure you can imagine the great amusement we found from seeing the walls of the cafe covered with a giant picture of a white baby! ... very strange! (we were also in Arkshadam one day and they were selling posters of white babies, is this normal???)

The tut tut episode

... Friday night me Georgia and Flo set off on our weekend travels to Haridwar, a city on the Ganga which is apparently the seventh holiest city in India (please dont quote me on this). So, bags packed we headed out into the night to catch the 10pm sleeper train from Old Delhi railway station. If I tell you that New Delhi railway station is like walking into a hospital/vetinary ward in a third world country, I am sure you can't begin to imagine what Old Delhi railway station would be like. We decided to be good with our spending so wandered to the metro, only to find after buying a ticket and getting on the train to Chandi Chowk that there was a 'technical' fault. All the other fellow passengers seemed at ease as they got off the train to wait. However, in true English spirit, as soon as we saw police officers running up and down the train we were off quicker than you could say the word 'bomb'.

Hailing a tut tut then became the second best option, though this in itself was no mean feat. It took us around 20 minutes and Me telling Flo to look as good as possible so that us 'westeners' would get a tut tut before the locals (this is bad, and I wouldnt usually do it, but desperate times call for western preference) ... so, we travelled into the night for about 30 seconds, before were told to get out and into another tut tut, for no apparent reason. But in Delhi, or anywhere else in India I presume, noone ever questions a tutut driver. ... Ever. At the end of the day all we know is that they are Indian, and have access to a vehicle, and say 'yes' if you ask whether they know where they are going! .. halfway through our final tutut of the night we decided to ask the driver how far.. he didn't reply so we assumed he spoke no English. Although on a quick glance into the mirror it was quite apparent that out tutut driver was almost asleep!

Several seconds later he pulled over and was sick everywhere. ... what does one do in this situation? due to the language barrier this presented quite a challenge. In the end we had to give him the money and leave. I offered him my water but he would not take it, but I hope he is alright now!.
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I am in Jaipur at the moment as the programme is over and it is my last week in India,. I haven't updated this in quite a while so I am forgetting bits and bobs and have such little time to write it all as so so so much has happened! ... will talk about the train in my next blog tomorrow am. sorry! Download: eType1.com/f.php?FpNowq

Happy Birthday Ganesh

We were kindly invited to Mr and Mrs Varma's sisters house to celebrate the birthday of the Hindu God Ganesh with their family.

The story of Ganesh (if I remember correctly, please bare with me):
Parvati was the mother of Ganesh, and she wished to bathe in private. She told her son to keep watch while she bathed and to let no one in under any circumstances. Whilst bathing God Shiva returned from war and tried to enter the place where Parvati was bathing to see her. Ganesh forbade him entry from this place, and Shiva, famous for his short temper, became angry at this, so drew his sword and cut of Ganesh's head. When Parvati had finished bathing she found her son decapitated and flew into a rage. Upset at this Shiva promised to make things right. He saw the passing off an elephant nearby and so took its head and placed it on Ganesh's body. Ganesh now symbolises protection and new beginnings. (A special thanks here to Mr. Varma who kindly brought us to see him family, celebrate with him and for telling us this story).

Ganesh:

And so we went, me, Will and Lucy, on Thursday evening, to the house of Mrs. Varma's sister in Pitampura to celebrate with them. It turned out to be the best night of my trip so far. It was the most fantastic atmosphere and we were welcomed into their family as if we were their brother or sister. The house was decorated with ribbons and lights and hangings, and in their lounge was a large shrine to Ganesh, including a statue of the God, with lights and streamers and flowers. The local holy man had also come to say prayers and bless the family and food. He wrapped red and yellow string around our wrists, on the right wrist for girls if they were not married and left if they are, and for men on their right at all times. We then prayed to Ganesh, and held a silver plate upto the statue which held a red powder scattered over it with writing in Hindi written in the powder. This tray also held a small dish which had tablets in it which were set alight. You them moved this tray slowly in clckwise and counter clockwise motions whilst saying prayers to Ganesh. Those who have blessed Ganesh or who are waiting to do so clapped along to the music making the whole atmosphere lively. After this the holy man would offer Ganesh the food so Ganesh could bless the food before we could all eat. It is apparently usual in Indian households that the elders eat first. However we were told that guests are seen as almost messengers sent by the Gods and so, as I am sure you can imagine we were looked after incredibly well and were almost first to try the food. There was Dal, and Paneer and yoghurts and rice, nan bread and many more dishes to try, although at this very moment I am finding it hard to remember the names!

After food we were dragged out to the patio by the girls to dance to their favourite Indian music. All the girls were fantastic dancers, and they spent time telling us what the songs meant and how to dance to them, Indian style! ... I wasn't brilliant at this it has to be said, but they were patient and complimentary... though I wouldnt blame them in the slightest if they had a bit of a giggle behind out backs! ... even Will joined in a bit of Indian dancing being the only boy to do so. Eventually the elders did dance with us and took almost center stage straight away, including Mr and Mrs. Varma, showing how much complete respect was held for them. Most of the night was spent dancing, so the only real way I can explain to you the atmosphere is to show you some photos, but I won't be able to do this until I am home.

I have to give a special mention here to two life long friends we made this night, Aishwarya and Mihika. The two most beautiful and friendliest people I have ever met! I am just sorry that we didn't have long enough to meet up and go for a girls day in Delhi! If you read this Aishwarya I would just like to let you know I will hold you to your offer of staying with you again, and please know both of you, that you are more than welcome anytime to stay with me in England, my door is always open for you. Aishwarya also gave me a friendship bracelet to remember her, but would not accept my necklace! ... I may post it to her!

To finish on a funny note, I has spent the entire night telling their family that Will was a good singer. So at the end of the evening, around 1am, everyone retired to the living room and sat down to hear Will sing... I don't think he was best pleased with me!... least to say it was a very awkward moment, around 30 people still left over sat on the sofas and floor of the living room watching three westerners try and sing... very badly, and not really knowing all the lyrics to the song 'i'm yours' by Jason Mraz.... yes I can almost hear you cringing as you read this! ... but they sat and listened, and didn't laugh (although this could be because they also were too shocked for words)... and even filmed us for a bit! ...

We received a box of chocolates at the end of the night, which went down a storm for saying it's pretty hard to find chocolate around here! The next and final morning at Mr Varma's we gave gifts of Indian sweets we had picked up from the Bengali Sweet House and cards for the staff at Mr Varma's and his family for inviting us into their home the previous night. We tried to find the most suitable card there is, as they all tended to be a bit slushy, and thankyou cards are relatively scarce as it is... but we didn't think a card covered in words back and front such as 'thankyou....for just being you, for everything you do, for making me whole and for loving me true' ..was appropriate! ... I did find a nice card to send to my mum, but the hard part out here is posting it.. so it is still in my room, but just to let her know that I have one for her and I will post it later if I can (sorry mum!)

xxx

Placement

Last week I had a placement at a chartered accountants S.M.Varma & co. Slightly apprehensive at first, given that we spent the first four hours alone in a small conference room with nothing to do. However I was wrong to assume that the rest of the week would be like this as it got so much better. I have managed at last to get at least one photo from India. In this photo from L to R is me, Lucy, Pulkit, Ankit and Harmeet (Will was also at the placement but was the one taking the photo)

These guys gave us lectures on basic accounting principles throughout the week. Sometimes this could get tedious, but it balanced out, as we would also talk to them as friends e.t.c. They are lovely guys, really friendly and from what I had seen and heard, very hard working and intelligent. They seem to be so proud to be working where they are, all had hopeful future plans and they understand the more they study the higher up they will get in life. Hopefully I will see them again at some point!.... they did also briefly invite us to 'Adventure Land'... a theme park. This offer was gracefully declined. Since the silent assumption between me, Lucy and Will was that we imagined an Indian roller coaster to be like a tut tut on rails! .. this doubt was further heightened when they failed to find a website for the place! 

These were the images going through my head:

I may be a little naive, but hey... I am pretty sure I felt more comfortable saying 'no' than I would ever have been saying 'yes' to a proposal such as this when I know full well how insanely they drive! 

Taj Mahal, the Red Fort and Agra

Yes guys, I really have seen it, in all its glory, cascading above the trees like it was flating on the clouds. Unfortunately, so have the other million people we were there with, and there were no clouds that day which made it steaming hot.

Saturday morning called for an early wake and a 4 hour coah journey to Agra, the home of the world famous Taj Mahal. It is exquisite, and like many things, is one place you have to see in your lifetime. I am just sorry I did not make it for sunrise, as the way the light hits the marble is meant to be beautiful. I instead, was sweating like a pig. It puts you in the mind set whereby you don't really give a crap where you are, you just want to sit down.... so after waking through the gates, having around a thousand photos in the poses like 'put your hand out and perspective will look like you are holding it' .... and the 'diana bench', I made my way upto the taj itself, as quick as possible, and sat down. Don't get me wrong. If it were empty and you could sit in its cool inside, lay on the stones, and look and watch the incredible view it may be one of my favourite places in the world. However after entering the actual mosoleum you were pushed in one direction to move around the tombs in a clockwise fashion, will sweaty people puching and showing, and whistles constantly being blown, it really does destroy he peace and serenity for which it is supposedly famed for. I am sure, had the creators known of this development for the Taj, they would, to put it bluntly, be turning in their graves.

We did learn however, that it was built by the mughal emporer Shah Jehan in memory of his third wife Mumtaz Mehal. In the centre of the mosoleum is the tomb of his wife, and to the left is the emporer. They had 14 children, although 8 died, and 4 boys and 2 girls survided. On the Taj Mahal are 14 chapters of the Quran for the children. One of the sons took over afer the emporer and when it was attempted to build a black marble Taj Mahal on the other said of the river by the creator of the original, the soon put his father in prison in the red fort, where he spent the rest of his life, being able to see the Taj from his window, but never being able to visit it again.

I shall update later, but I have just had my work experience day and I am really tired, so I am going to go and have a nap in my freezer of a bedroom beore hopefully going to India Gate tonight where there is Indian dancing and fun ... apparently. (i.e. that is what I have been told by an Indian man, and may indeed be rubbish, as many things have turned out to be, but as long as you have a good sense of humour and a little faith, things tend to turn out for the best!) xxx

shits

I would first like to clarify, that I can give no other name to this. It isn't poo, it isn't crap, it isn't faeces, it is pure and simple shit. I so far, have been lucky enough only to have a mere sample of what could possibly be to come. But I have decided a post of this kind is appropriate if you are to get as much understanding as possible of my time in India. Because talking about shit is a common occurrence. I would be so blunt as to say around 70% of our time we talk about it. After one meal out at 'Legends of India' restaurant we were queuing for the loo when one poor girl came running at me so fast I though she was going to take me out as she slammed shut the loo door. I should mention I wasn't able to use the loo for the next half an hour. But it's nothing new and I have come to think nothing of it. We have a system in our room, whereby if we are having, aptly called 'toilet time'.... we can put the shower on, the extractor fan, the TV, the air conditioning and the fan,.... and then we can let rip.

There is also a scam, called 'the poo man scam' .... whereby a man will squirt some shit on your shoe, and then will offer to clean it off at the tidy some of Rs 100. .... this has created a rather dramatic paranoia within our group, especially for the few that wear open toe sandals!


I shall keep you updated on my bowel movements however. As it is the theme of many jokes. I am just really dreading the day when I leave the hostel wearing my white linen trousers and I feel that rumbling of thunder from within which gives a warning that something much greater is on its way. You must note hear, that my fear is not irrational when I tell you there are very few, if any toilets around, and if you manage to find one it will be a hole in the ground with a small bucket of water by the side. As Indians do not use western loos.

Train museum...

However not as bad as one would first think.... yes there were trains, lots of trains. But it was a nice place and the photos were good! However within half an hour most groups had finished their tour and were now sitting at the outside cafe. Our guide however, having only been on the job for a month, was incredibly enthusiastic and went on for an hour and a half. I now know a considerable amount about the Indian railway system!... plus I have around 50 photos of trains.. all different, ... but all trains!